1850 Potential Tourney List

After a bit of brain storming and looking over what I have, I came up with the following list. I present it to you now for consideration.

HQ
Space Marine Chapter Master -- 170 pts.
--Boltgun
--Artificer Armor
--Relic Blade

Space Marine Chaplain -- 125 pts.
--Jump Pack
--Digital Weapons

Elites
Dreadnought -- 125 pts.
--Assault Cannon
--Heavy Flamer

1x5 Terminators --230
--Assault Cannon

Troops
1x10 Man Tactical Squad--205 points
--Flamer
--Multi-melta
--Rhino

1x10 Man Tactical Squad--255 points
--Plasma gun
--Missile launcher
--Razorback (TL Lascannon)

Fast Attack
1x10 Man Assault Squad -- 215
--Powerfist
--Combat Shield
--Melta Bombs

Heavy Support
Whirlwind -- 85 points

Land Raider --250 points

Predator -- 190 points
--Autocannon
--Lascannon Sponsons
--Sgt. Chronus

TOTAL: 1850

The way I see it working out is I'll have the Chapter Master joined to the Terminators inside the LR to go forth and kill what they can. The MM Tac Squad in the Rhino will go hunting, while the Razorback Tac Squad will set up as a kind of forward fire base. The Whirlwind will be set up to start smashing hordes, with the Predator tooled up for support, hopefully from behind cover. The Dreadnought will mainly be used as a hunter/distraction. The Assault marines, finally, will be paired with the Chaplain and used for interdiction. I plan to keep them behind cover/out of line of sight until they're in a good position to ruin somebody's day.

Feel free to let me know what you think!

Layout Changes and Table Construction

Well, normally I refuse to do these sort of posts on principle, because they do little to actually further the content of my blog, but I made some layout changes. I felt like the widgets got far too distracting on the left side when trying to read a post, so now they're over there ----->.

In order to satisfy my own standards, let it be known that a friend and I have started working on making 2' x 4' table top sections for our games. We used the basic plans from miniwargaming.com, found in their "How to" articles section. Hopefully the tabletops will be done shortly after finals are over. They aren't the prettiest or the most professionally done, but we're not professionals, and it gives us some excuse to play wi...ehrm...get more experience with power tools.

Last, but by no means least, I am getting ready for a tournament. 1850. A list will be posted shortly for criticism/suggestions.

Thank you, and good night!

Door Hinging: how to

I realize that I am making this post in an era of magnetization, in which models are almost always magnetized to maximize the number of options available to them. And this is an excellent idea! However, I have yet to see a tutorial using magnetization (please point one out to me if you have seen it!) in order to make Land Raider and Rhino/Razorback doors articulate on their hinges. With a great deal of ignorance, I tried a few things out, and surprisingly, they seem to have worked. Here is my method of hinging transport doors, for your consideration.

Materials needed:
Pin vice
Wire clippers
Staple(s)
Green-stuff
Model (duh)

Step 1: First, you have to decide that you really want to do this to your doors. Once this is done, there is no going back in terms of being able to magnetize options effectively. Once that decision has been made, get your model ready!

Step 2: Drill holes into the sides of the hatch jam with your pin vice. An example is below. However, I would suggest drilling one of those holes at a straight on 90 degree angle for ease of installation later. I put in two 45 degree angle holes to help hold the staples in, and while it worked fine for the first, the second staple was a real bugger to get in. Again, your call, but save yourself some of the hassle.

Step 3: Drill holes into the door hinges.

Step 4: Get a single staple, and carefully cut it in half with your wire clippers. The best method for doing this and still being able to find the pieces, I found, is to hold the staple with two fingers of your non-cutting hand on your work-mat, and clipping with the other hand.

Step 5: Put half of the staple into one of the door hinges, and the second in the other. Hold them both in, and clip them in the center area to get them down to size.

Step 6: Finagle your door/staple monstrosity into the holes you drilled into the frame. The fit should be pretty snug.

Step 7: On the other side of the frame, either bend the staples towards the center of the frame, or swivel them down next to the frame and trim off the excess (the latter is a lot easier.)

Step 8: Get a nice, big glob of green stuff, divide it in half, and smear each half over the exposed staple. (Example below. It's hard [maybe impossible] to see, but there is still part of an exposed staple on the left!)

Step 9: Admire the majesty of your now articulated doors! Since the fit is so tight, the staples will be held in place by a combination of pressure inside the jam and green stuff smeared on the inside of the frame.


And that's that! I hope it's inspired you to not skimp on making those doors articulate now, because it's really not that big of a deal. One word of caution, though: NEVER try to shove anything through a small hole with your pin vice. The bits WILL snap, leaving you up a creek without a paddle.

As always, questions and comments are welcome, and if you've magnetized hinges, by all means, show me! I would love to see your work!